MIKE JEKNAVORIAN Local Restaurants

HOGFISH BAR & GRILL

SHADE-O-METER RATING

4 OUTTA 5 WERKS: “SHE GAVE GOOD FACE – SHE SERVED IT”

What’s Hogfish Bar & Grill?  It’s a seafood restaurant in Stock Island.  Was there an age restriction?  No.  What time did we go?  Around 1:30 p.m.  How was the hostess?  Fine (not to be ageist, but they’re basically kids).

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What was the décor like?  Nautical, but also with imagery from fishing piers.  What was the seating like?  The main dining area is basically a large tiki hut.  There’s also a bar, and a dockside dining area as well.  What was the atmosphere like?  Key-West casual.  It’s waterfront dining on both sides.

What was the crowd like?  Although the restaurant’s slogan is, “A great place if you can find it,” the restaurant likely isn’t a secret.  It seemed like the crowd was comprised of about 50 percent tourists.  When’s happy hour?  Monday through Saturday, from 4:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m.

What libations were ordered?  A Hogfish Margarita for $11, and chardonnay for $8.  Were they served timely?  Yes.  How were the drinks?  The margarita tasted good—it had a Grand Marnier float on top of it—and it was strong.  The wine was fine.

What was ordered?  Based on the server’s recommendation, a Killer Tuna Nachos appetizer for $17.95, Stuffed Hogfish with Crabmeat Stuffing for $26.95, and Jose’s New Orleans Seafood Gumbo (advertised as a house specialty) for $13.95.  Was the food served timely?  Yes.

How was the food?  Excellent.  The tuna appetizer had a lot going on in it, with seaweed, scallions, sesame seeds, and two kinds of sauces on top of it—tamarind glaze and wasabi cream.  Despite the abundance of ingredients, or maybe because of them, it all worked.  The fried wonton “nacho” was a nice touch as well in the dish.  The one comment is that the salt in the tamarind glaze slightly overwhelmed the taste of the other ingredients.  Concerning the entrées, hogfish is a high-end fish, and with the first bit, one could see why.  I’ve had it before, but this time it had a slightly smoky taste to it, akin to the smokiness that delights the palate in the first sip of a single malt scotch.  Overall, the fish was suburb.  The cold bean salad that was served with the fish was a fitting complement.  However, the beans were slightly overcooked.  Concerning the seafood gumbo, it tasted more like tomato-based New England seafood bisque rather than gumbo, but that was not necessarily a bad thing.  The soup was great, but there was no need for both rice AND white bread.

How was the service?  Casual, yet knowledgeable and affable.  What stands out about the restaurant?  The locale, and the quality of the food.

What could be improved?  As far as the food goes, not much, other than the minor comments above.  However, if you’re going to serve bread with soup, the bread must be as high-caliber as the dish. Regarding the ambiance, if they really want to brand themselves as a hidden gem that can only be found based on a “tip from a local,” then the merchandising of Hogfish t-shirts appears incongruous with this claim.  Either one is Disney World, or they’re not.  Personally, I would ditch the merchandising.  Concerning the prices, they’re a bit high for Stock Island.

What was surprising?  They have a tiny, little stage in the corner, which I never noticed before, so they must have entertainment at night (only on the weekends, according to the website).

Hogfish Bar & Grill is located at 6810 Front St., in Stock Island, Florida.  It’s open seven days a week from about 11:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.   

 

MIKE JEKNAVORIAN Local Restaurants

MRS. MAC’S KITCHEN

SHADE-O-METER RATING

5 OUTTA 5 WERKS: “10s ACROSS THE BOARD – LEGENDARY STATUS”

What is Mrs. Mac’s Kitchen?  It’s a seafood restaurant in Key Largo.  There are two locations, but both of them are on US 1.  The original location is on the southbound side of US 1, and the second one is on the northbound side.  According to restaurant’s website, the original location is the longest-running restaurant in Key Largo.

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Was there an age restriction?  No.  Would you really expect Mrs. Mac to dare discriminate against children?  What time did we go?  At about 1:00 p.m.  How was the maître d’?  Pleasant.  What was the décor like?  Nautical-inspired, but with a flair of island artistry.

What was the seating like?  They had a fair amount of counter seating.  However, most of the seating was tables and booths.  What was the atmosphere like?  Low-key (no pun intended).  What was the crowd like?  Who knows what they’re like at night, but at this time of the day, people were there to dine, not to socialize.

How was the cruising?  In this area, the only cruising that can be found is the kind that a boat does when it’s in the water.  When’s happy hour?  They don’t have one.  What libations were ordered?  Two “House Specialty” drinks.  A Bloody “Mac” Mary for $7.50, and a “Macs” Muddled Margarita for $6.50.

Were they served timely?  Yes.  How were the drinks?  The bloody Mary had a celery-salted rim.  The margarita was muddled with lemon, lime and orange.  They were both pretty good, but neither was excellent.  Of the two, the bloody Mary was better.

What was ordered?  A cup of Award-Winning Conch Chowder (it came with the entre for $2 more), a bowl of World-Famous Homemade Chili for $5.99, Caribbean-Style Grilled Crab Cakes for $12.99, A Fresh Fish of the Day for $12.99, a Seafood Pasta for $18.99, and a slice of Famous Key Lime Pie for $4.99.  Was the food served timely?  Yes.

How was the food?  The conch chowder was superb and earned its title as “award winning,” spicy and with an aroma of fresh oregano.  It was also served with sherry on the side.  The chili was also excellent, thick and zingy, but it was a notch below the conch.  The crab cakes were made of blue crab that came from a fishing pier that’s right around the corner from the restaurant, and I defy anyone to find crab cakes that have less filling than these ones did (everyone knows how restaurants love to pad them out with filling).  The honey-mustard aioli that was served on top of them was excellent as well.  The only comment is that the crust on the outside of the crab cakes could have been a bit crispier.  The “fresh catch” entre, which is served how you like it (I opted for “blackened), was off-the-boat fresh.  With fish of this quality—flounder, I believe—there was no need to pretty it up with a bunch of seasoning.  It speaks for itself.  The tartar sauce that is came with was also exceptional.  Regarding the seafood pasta, the sherry-tinged alfredo sauce was decadent and delicious, and the copious amounts of seafood in it were cooked to perfection.  As if all this wasn’t enough, the server said that the Key lime pie was the best he ever had (a woman comes into the restaurant every night and makes 70 of them).  With a perfect amalgamate of ingredients, the pie itself was great, but the Cool Whip on top of it must be replaced with real whipped cream.

How was the service?  Excellent.  And the servers are locals, so they’ll chat with you, if you get them going.  What stands out about the restaurant?  The quality of the food!  What could be improved?  Other than that the drinks could be better, and the minor comments about the food, hardly any improvement is needed.

What was surprising?  Although not quite surprising, it was certainly interesting to hear the server reminisce that his family would vacation in Key Largo every year, and his mother would “smuggle” 20 lbs. of blue crab back to Buffalo and ration it over the year.

Mrs. Mac’s Kitchen is located at 99020 Overseas Hwy., in Key Largo, Florida.  They’re open from 11:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m., Monday through Saturday.  They’re closed on Sunday. 

 

 

MIKE JEKNAVORIAN Local Restaurants

CAROLINE’S CAFE

SHADE-O-METER RATING

3 OUTTA 5 WERKS: “NO SHADE, BUT SHE DIDN’T TURN IT OUT”

What’s Caroline’s Cafe?  It’s a restaurant on Duval Street in Key West.  The restaurant is housed in the Joseph Y. Porter House, which dates to 1838.  Joseph Y. Porter was Key West’s first native-born doctor.  Was there an age restriction?  No.  What time did we go?  At about 9:00 p.m., on a Sunday.

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How was the maître d’?  A younger person, I believe.  No impression was left.  What was the décor like?  Predominately inspired by imagery associated with Key West artists and localism.  What was the seating like?  It’s all outdoors.  What was the atmosphere like?  Very casual.

What was the crowd like?  Leaning on the younger side.  How was the cruising?  Nonexistent.  When’s happy hour?  No happy hour.  I asked.  What libations were ordered?  A chardonnay for $6.00, and a grapefruit margarita for $8.00.  Were they served timely?  Yes.

How were the drinks?  The wine was fine.  The margarita was advertised as a “featured cocktail.”  Considering that, there could have been more to it.  The drink seemed like it was a regular margarita, but with canned grapefruit juice simply poured into it.  What was ordered?  A Boston Lettuce Wrap for $10.99, Spicy Cajun Jambalaya for $18.99, and Rev. Joe’s Burger for $9.99.  Was the food served timely?  Yes.

How was the food?  The sauces, a peanut one and a spicy Thai one, in the Boston Lettuce Wrap were good.  The grilled chicken in it was fine as well.  However, the dish should come with a serving spoon or some such utensil.  The shrimp in the Spicy Cajun Jambalaya was excellent—plump and not overcooked—but the the andouille in it was less impressive.  The French fries that were served with Rev. Joe’s Burger were great.  With the first bite it was apparent that the oil that was used to fry them was high-quality. The fries also weren’t masked with a bunch of salt—you can actually taste them.  Regarding the burger, I’m not sure how Rev. Joe plays into it, but the website advertises that his burger is the “biggest and the best.”  It certainly didn’t look like the biggest around (no pun intended, ladies), and it definitely wasn’t the best.  What it did look like was a Whopper, but it didn’t even taste as good as one.

How was the service?  Here’s where Miss Caroline will have to take a hit.  For some reason, the wait at the end was excessive.  This appeared inexplicable, for, if anything, the crowd didn’t increase as it got later but actually thinned out.

What stands out about the restaurant?  The view of Duval Street.  The tables that border Duval Street allow you to watch the people parade on by on it.  What could be improved?  The food overall.  Nothing was special about any of it.

What was surprising?  The nonsense that happens on Duval Street.  Fat Tuesday is across the street, and there were a pack of delightful sorority/frat-house types that graciously provided free twerking demonstrations—along with the accompaniments of their friends yelling and cheering them on—on the spacious steps of the bar.  Alas, although it seemed like one of them was about to take a tumble and go head over heels down the steps, it never happened.  One could only hope.

Caroline’s Café is located at 301 Duval St., in Key West, Florida.  They’re open daily from 11:00 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.

MIKE JEKNAVORIAN Local Restaurants

CAMILLE’S

SHADE-O-METER RATING

2 OUTTA 5 WERKS: “NOT FEELING IT”

What’s Camille’s?  It’s a restaurant in Key West.  Our server claimed that they’ve been around for 65 years, but the Facebook page says 20 years.  Regardless, they’ve been in Key West for quite a while.

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Was there an age restriction?  No.  What time did we go?  Around 6:00 p.m.  How was the maître d’?  The server sat us.  They didn’t have a maître d’.  What was the décor like?  Rather funky.

What was the seating like?  They have two dining rooms. One is larger than the other. Both rooms have some cool bench seats as well.  What was the atmosphere like?  Casual.  The vibe is diner-ish, but a high-end diner.  What was the crowd like?  Mostly locals.

How was the cruising?  You’ll have to go to Island House if you want that (and you can dine in the nude there as well, if that tickles your fancy).  When’s happy hour?  They have a full bar, but sadly, there’s no happy hour.  What libations were ordered?  A white wine for $10.75—outrageous price.

Was it served timely?  Yes.  How was the drink?  Table wine.  Nothing more can be said about it than that.  What was ordered?  A Shanghai Calamari appetizer for $12.95, meatloaf for $17.95, and seafood pasta for $27.95.  Was the food served timely?  Yes.

How was the food?  They have 2 for 1 “Signature Entrees” for dinner, and now I know the need for the discount.  The meatloaf was wrapped in bacon, and it came with red-bliss mashed potatoes and green beans.  The gravy on the meatloaf was so salty that you could have had a stroke right there at the table.  The bacon around the meatloaf was undercooked.  However, the caramalized onions on top of the meatloaf were pretty good.  The white sauce in the seafood dish was fine, but the seafood itself was slightly overcooked.  And Madame Camille is cheap as well, trying to pad out the dish with spaghetti to trick you.  Regarding the calamari appetizer, the calamari itself was bland.  It was also obvious that the dipping sauce was merely Caravelle chili sauce straight out of the bottle.

How was the service?  The servers were pleasant, but they were also a bit quirky.  You get the feeling that some of them drink the nights away on their houseboat on Stock Island.  What stands out about the place?  Two things: the décor, and the fact that it’s not on Duval Street.  If you’re looking for a restaurant that doesn’t have a lot of tourists, then this is it.

What could be improved?  The restaurant is known for breakfast and lunch.  We’ve been there for lunch, and it was excellent.  But, unfortunately, this review is for dinner.  In that area, they need to improve the quality of the food.

What was surprising?  There was a straight couple next to us on a date, and every time we looked over, the bitch had another shot in front of her.  But then again, her date was carrying on about the bible, so maybe miss thing needed the drinks to get through the meal.

Camille’s is located at 1202 Simonton St., in Key West, Florida.  They’re open every day from 8:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. 

 

MIKE JEKNAVORIAN Local Restaurants

ONLYWOOD

SHADE-O-METER RATING

4 OUTTA 5 WERKS: “SHE GAVE GOOD FACE – SHE SERVED IT”

What’s Onlywood?  It’s an Italian “trattoria” (Notably, there are three Italian-dinning styles.  Osteria, which is tantamount to American take-out, is the least formal.  Trattoria, which is casual but still consists of table service.  And ristorante, which is the most formal and emphasizes haute cuisine) in Key West.    The restaurant is right off of Duval Street, but it’s rather easy to miss if you don’t know what you’re looking for.  Hence, there’s a slight air of the “hidden gem” going on with it.

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Was there an age restriction?  No.  What time did we go?  Around 9:30 p.m.  How was the maître d’?  No complaints.  What was the décor like?  The lighting is low in the alley that leads to the restaurant, so there’s a haunted-house vibe that exudes as one enters.  The décor of the restaurant itself is done in typical Key West style.

What was the seating like?  The inside seating is more illuminated and less quaint than the al fresco area.  What was the atmosphere like?  Casual.  In addition, many of the staff speak Italian.  What was the crowd like?  Mostly tourists.

How was the cruising?  The days of Key West as a gay mecca are long gone.  No cruising.  When’s happy hour?  Daily, from 5:30 p.m. to 7:00 p.m.  What libations were ordered?  One glass of white wine, which was $9.  Were they served timely?  Yes.

How were the drinks?  There was nothing great, but nothing bad, about the wine.  What was ordered?  An Alla Caprese salad for $13.50, Fettucine alla Bolognese for $17.50, Fettucine Parma e Parmigiano for $15.50, and a 4 Maiali pizza for $18.50.  Was the food served timely?  Yes.

How was the food?  The mozzarella in the caprese salad was advertised as homemade, and possessed a wonderful richness to it.  The tomatoes in the dish were less impressive.  The fettucine in the bolognese was homemade and egg-based.  The noodles were excellent, but the meat was a bit bland. The noodles were the same kind in the parmigiana dish, and the sauce in this dish was authentic and first-rate.  Regarding the pizza, the restaurant has an imported brick oven, and if there’s one standout to the place, it would likely be their pizzas. The sauce in the pizza pops in the mouth on the first bite, and the prosciutto and pepperoni in it was delicious.  However, the pizza’s crust was bit of a disappointment, as there was no required crunch.

How was the service?  Fine, but there was nothing special about it, either.  What stands out about the place?  The pizza and the al fresco dinning.  What could be improved?  The food needs to be a little more consistent.  In addition, the plant on the table with the price tag kind-of blew the “trattoria” bucolic theme.

What was surprising?  The music.  It was all Italian, but each song was basically a rip-off of non-Italian artists.  The music went from an early-rock Buddy Holly-ish song, to The Stones, to Bob Dylan and then to Abba.

Onlywood is located at 613-1/2 Duval St., in Key West, Florida.  Consult the website for the restaurant’s hours, which are seasonal. 


 

 

 

 

 

MIKE JEKNAVORIAN Local Restaurants

PANE VINO

SHADE-O-METER RATING

4 OUTTA 5 WERKS: “SHE GAVE GOOD FACE – SHE SERVED IT”

What’s Pano Vino?  It’s an Italian restaurant that’s on Espnaola Way in South Beach.  The name literally translates as, “wine bread.”  Was there an age restriction?  No.  What time did we go?  The wait at 11:15 p.m. was a half an hour long.  We were seated at 11:45 p.m.

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How was the maître d’?  Friendly.  What was the décor like?  Inspired by the Italian countryside.  What was the seating like?  Very minimal, which keeps her exclusive.  There are about four tables outside, and about 11 inside.

What was the atmosphere like?  If you’re sitting outside, you’re sitting parallel to Washington Ave., so you get to see all of the hoopla that this street has to offer.  The seating inside appeared quainter.

What was the crowd like?  Probably mostly tourist, but it was difficult to tell.  Italians do patronize it, because some of the customers were speaking Italian.  How was the cruising?  As everyone knows, the gay scene has mostly dried-up in Miami. There ain’t no cruising going on here.

When’s happy hour?  Sorry Miss Crawford, but the restaurant doesn’t serve liquor, only beer and wine.  What libations were ordered?  We didn’t get any.  What was ordered?  A Caesar salad ($10), Lasagna Emiliana ($19), Cannellone Ricotta e Spinaci ($18), and Cappelletti verdi Tartufati. ($25).  Was the food served timely?  Yes.

How was the food?  The bread that was served prior to the meal was some type of sourdough bread, which may not be the best fit for an Italian restaurant.  Concerning the quality of the bread, it was ok.  Not much can be said about the salad other than that it was a Cesar salad, as expected.  All of the entrées that we ordered were homemade.  The meat in the lasagna was good, and the presentation of it was in tandem with the restaurant’s rustic theme.  Regarding the cannellone, the béchamel (a white sauce) and red sauce combo was probably the best feature of the dish.  As far as the cappelletti goes, if we had to pick one, this was the best dish.  The mascarpone and ricotta cheese that was in the pasta was as light and fluffy as the clouds, and very tasty, and the black truffle sauce that was on top of the pasta provided just the right counterpoint.

How was the service?  They’re attentive.  Some of the staff speak to each other in Italian, so I supposed that this ads to the overall ambiance.  What stands out about the place?  The homemade food, and the dinner-theater atmosphere of Washington Ave.  What could be improved?  The bread should be higher quality.

What was surprising?  There sure must be a lot of Uber drivers working on Saturday night near Washington Ave. because we saw several groups of people playing around on their phone, ordering Uber, and in less than a minute, they were picked up.

Pane Vino is located at 1450 Washington Ave., in Miami Beach, Florida.  It’s open seven days a week from 5:30 p.m. to midnight.     

MIKE JEKNAVORIAN Local Restaurants

TAP 42

SHADE-O-METER RATING

4 OUTTA 5 WERKS: “SHE GAVE GOOD FACE – SHE SERVED IT”

What’s Tap 42?  It’s a craft-beer bar and a restaurant in the southern part of Fort Lauderdale.  The “42” in the name comes from 42 beers on-tap (I counted).  There are five locations throughout South Florida.  Was there an age restriction?  No.  Come one, come all.

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What time did we go?  7:00 p.m.  How was the maître d’?  Fine.  However, they’re really hosts/hostesses rather than maître d’s.  What was the décor like?  Rustic, with a conspicuous absence of the appurtenances of wealth.  But there is a whiff of the corporate hand (the décor of Cracker Barrel comes to mind).

What was the seating like?  There’s seating inside and out.  They had bar seating, regular seating and seating at counter-height tables inside.  There are only tables outside—no bar.  Both areas were equally popular.  What was the atmosphere like?  Very loud!  What was the crowd like?  A good mix of young professionals and middle-aged people. 

How was the cruising?  No queens.  She only served femme and butch realness.  When’s happy hour?  It’s from 4:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m., Monday through Friday.  You get $2 off for happy hour.  What libations were ordered?  One Drafted Old Fashion for $12, and one Chardonnay for $9.  Were they served timely?  Yes.

How were the drinks?  The old fashion was excellent.  The drink had something in it that I couldn’t quit place, which can likely be attributed to the house-infused beer syrup.  In keeping with the rustic theme, the glass that the drink was in was very thick and heavy.  The Chardonnay was fine, but nothing to write home about.

What was ordered?  A Basket of Crispy Fries for $6, a Frame Grilled Chicken Wings for $13.50, a side of Roasted Brussel Sprouts for $6, and the Prohibition Burger for $14.50.  Was the food served timely?  Si.

How was the food?  Without a doubt, the standout were the wings.  OMG.  The closest I can compare them to is the dry-rub BBQ that’s in Memphis.  The meat fell off the bone, the flavor was exquisite, and they were served with copious amounts of homemade blue cheese dressing.  To die for…  The fries were addictive, but a bit too salty.  At first I thought that they tasted almost exactly like McDonald’s fries, but eventually it became apparent that they’re more-than-likely hand-cut.  The burger and Brussel sprouts were good, but, of the two, the Brussel sprouts won—they were seasoned with maple syrup (could use a smidge less of it), mustard and thyme, and had a wonderful burnt flavor.

How was the service?  Fine.  And we told the server that we had to be out of there by 7:45 p.m., and she made it happen.  What stands out about the place?  The beer taps…  And the wings! 

What could be improved?  The server could maybe do a better job about describing the architecture of the restaurant.  The website has no information about it, but it looks like half of the building is a brewery?  Also, there’s no regular parking, only valet.  Even though it’s free, not really feeling this.  What was surprising?  The locale.  There’s really not much around it, so it comes off like a hidden gem.

Tap 42 is located at 1411 South Andrews Ave., in Fort Lauderdale, Florida.  It’s open seven days a week from about 11:00 a.m. to about midnight (the “bar stays open based on volume”).   

MIKE JEKNAVORIAN Local Restaurants

THE LOBBY BAR AT THE HOTEL COLONNADE

SHADE-O-METER RATING

3 OUTTA 5 WERKS: “NO SHADE, BUT SHE DIDN’T TURN IT OUT”

What’s the Hotel Colonnade?  It’s a vintage gilded-age hotel – circa 1926 – that’s located on Miracle Mile in Coral Gables.  What’s The Lobby Bar?  It’s the one, and only, bar in the hotel.  However, she ain’t in “the lobby” but on the second floor.

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How was the maître d’?  There was no maître d’ for the bar.  What was the décor like?  The lobby bar marries modern architecture with a vintage design—predominately, with Art Deco.  Ditto for the décor in the rest of the hotel.  However, the design in the rotunda was the exception; it was neoclassical.

What was the seating like?  We got there at about 5:30 p.m., on a Saturday, and the bar was crowded with wedding patrons.  However, there were more than enough seats for everyone.  What was the atmosphere like?  Moderately upscale and chill.  What was the crowd like?  It was composed mostly of wedding patrons, but peppered with a few regular hotel patrons and guests.

How was the cruising?  Zero, point, zero.  When is happy hour?  It’s from 5:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m., Monday through Thursday, and from 3:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m., on Friday.  What libations were ordered?  A sidecar, which was $11, and Mountain View chardonnay, which was $9.

Were they served timely?  There were no servers; you could only order at the bar.  How were they?  The wine was fine.  According to the hotel’s website, the bar serves handcrafted cocktails.  Considering this, I’ve certainly had sidecars that were stronger and more complex.

What was on the menu?  The hotel only servers breakfast – in the Aragon Café – to 11:30 a.m.  For room service, or anything beyond 11:30 a.m., guest and patrons can order from a restaurant that’s next door, and the hotel delivers it to you for free.  We didn’t order any food.  However, there’s a little Argentinian market/café around the corner, called Graziano’s, that has fabulous empanadas.

How was the service?  The bartender was friendly enough, with a breezy sort-of air about him.  What stands out about the place?  Obviously, the history and the décor.  If it wasn’t for that, it really wouldn’t be worth it.

What could be improved?  Now, here’s where we start with some complaining.  Wedding patrons had essentially co-opted the EN-TIRE hotel.  They proliferated in the lobby, the game room, the bar, as well as the main staircase that leads up to the bar.  Not only were they all over the place, but as it got closer to the time that the wedding was about to begin, one was muscled – by hotel personnel who didn’t speak English, to add insult to injury – away from the staircase and the staircase railing (conceivable, to preserve the integrity of the wedding pictures).  Um, methinks that any non-wedding guest and patron should have full access to the hotel, particularly, when considering that the rooms are $300 and up.  The nerve.

What was surprising?  The locale of the hotel.  It’s sandwiched in between contemporary building.  Vintage photographs in the lobby show that it was originally free-standing.  They should have left it that way.

The Lobby Bar at the Hotel Colonnade is located at 180 Aragon Ave., in Coral Gables, Florida.  The bar is open from Monday through Friday, from 4:30 p.m. to 11:00 p.m., and on Friday and Saturday, from noon to 1:00 a.m.  It’s closed on Sunday.

 

MIKE JEKNAVORIAN Local Restaurants

WHAT THE PHO?

SHADE-O-METER RATING

4 OUTTA 5 WERKS: “SHE GAVE GOOD FACE – SHE SERVED IT”

What’s “What The Pho?”  It’s a Vietnamese restaurant in Wilton Manors.  According to the website, it’s owned by a family member of Miami-Dade’s Miss Saigon Bistro chain.  This is the owner’s first solo venture.  How was the maître d’?  Great.  She was friendly and casual.  What was the décor like?  Industrial, but with evocations of jungles and Buddhist imagery.  What was the seating like?  There were a few seats at the bar.  The rest of the seating was either traditional tables or high-top ones.

What was the atmosphere like?  Considering that it was a Friday night at about 10:00 p.m., it was fairly crowded.  What was the crowd like?  It was about two-thirds gay.  How’s the cruising?  None really.  When was happy hour?  No happy hour.  Does that make it a “sad” hour?  What libations were ordered?  They don’t serve liquor.  They only have beer, wine and sake.  However, they do have saketinis.  They offer hot and cold sake.  We ordered wine ($10) and hot sake ($10.95; and yes, quality sake should not be consumed hot).

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Were they served timely?  Yes.  How were they?  Nothing special.  The sake and wine was average.  Considering this, they’re overpriced.  What was on the menu?  As the name implies, the emphasis is on the pho.  Pho is a noodle soup that consists of broth, rice noodles, herbs, and usually beef or chicken.  They do offer a vegetarian version.  There’s also a “Huey” special (named after the owner) that’s apparently popular.

What was ordered?  For appetizers, we ordered the crispy spring rolls ($7.95 for two) and the crispy seafood spring rolls ($8.95 for four).  For entrées, we ordered vegetarian pho ($13.95), spicy pork pho ($16.95) and chicken fried rice ($11.95).  Was the food served timely?  Yes.

How was the food?  The crispy springs rolls had chicken and crab in them, and they were served with a fish-based “nuoc cham” dipping sauce.  The fish-flavor in the sauce was subtle, and the balance of the competing elements in it was correct.  However, the rolls themselves could have used more crab.  The dish was also served with another undisclosed sauce.  Perhaps soy sauce?  The crispy seafood spring rolls were also served with the same nuoc cham sauce.  Of the two dishes, the seafood spring rolls were better.  Regarding the entrées, the pho was served with an over-flowing side of bean sprouts, basil, lime, and jalapeño peppers.  Both dishes were excellent.  The meat in the pork pho was in delicate strips.  The tofu in the vegetarian pho is fresh and soft.  The fried rice was okay, but there was a slightly glutinous consistency.

How was the service?  Personable.  What stands out about the place?  The service and the pho.  What could be improved?  The food could use an element of surprise or hints of the exotic.  Increase the caliber of the drinks, or reduce the prices.  What was surprising?  That toilet paper rolls were displayed outside of the bathrooms.

What The Pho? is located at 2033 Wilton Drive, in Wilton Manors, Florida.  It’s open for lunch Tuesday through Saturday.  Dinner is served daily.  Consult the website for exact closing times, which range from 9:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. 

 

MIKE JEKNAVORIAN Local Restaurants

CASBLANCA CAFE

SHADE-O-METER RATING

4 OUTTA 5 WERKS: “SHE GAVE GOOD FACE – SHE SERVED IT”

What’s Casablanca Café?  It’s restaurant that’s in the Jova House.  The Jova House—circa 1927—is the oldest remaining structure on Fort Lauderdale Beach.  The house was converted into a restaurant in 1993.  How was the maître d’?  No complaints.  There always seems to be someone there.  What was the décor like?  Fabulous.  The owner(s) smartly preserved the Mediterranean Revival architecture.

What was the seating like?  There is indoor and outdoor seating, both upstairs and downstairs.  There’s limited seating in the piano bar area as well.  What was the atmosphere like?  Casual, with about a 50/50 mix of tourists and local.  Some people are dressed up in afternoon attire, and some people are in bathing suits.

How’s the cruising?  Not really present.  However, for the guys, there are a fair number of queens there.  When was happy hour?  Monday through Friday, from 4:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m.  What libations were ordered?  We got a Bloody Mary, a cucumber martini and a “Casa Basil” drink.  They were between $10 and $13.  Were they served timely?  Yes.

How were they?  The Bloody Mary could have been a little more pungent, the cucumber martini was a little too sweet and the strawberries and the basil in the “Casa” drink should have been muddled.  They’re also a little stingy with the pourin’ of the liquor.  however, overall, the drinks are good.  What was on the menu?  We went for lunch, which was served until 4:30 p.m.  They have their traditional Menu, and there’s also a few specialty drinks and entrees.

What was ordered?  A baked brie appetizer and an ahi tuna appetizer.  For the entrees, a fish taco, a seafood linguini, and a snapper entre (which was the catch of the day).  The appetizers were about $14 and $15.  The entrees ranged from about $15 to $19.  Was the food served timely?  Yes.  The wait was appropriate for this type of restaurant.

How was it?  The brie appetizer is basically a deconstructed salad, which is interesting concept.  The blueberries in it were perfectly ripe.  The tuna appetizer had picked kimchee (cabbage) in, which was a nice touch.  Regarding the entrees, the snapper dish was a tad too salty.  But the roasted tomatoes and the parsley-infused olive oil in it were complementary and pleasing.  The coleslaw in the fish tacos needed more dressing, but the fish was very fresh (which is paramount).  The seafood linguini was served with lobster cream sauce, as opposed to the more common red sauce.  There was a modest amount of seafood in the dish.

How was the service?  Attentive.  What stands out about the place?  The décor and the view.  Regarding both, it simply doesn’t get any better.  however, I’m sure that no one appreciated the irritating noise from periodic motorcycles.  What could be improved?  The wait staff removed the plates from two people while the third was still eating.  This is a no-no.  What was surprising?  The inside windows on the second floor don’t open.

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Casablanca Café is located at 3049 Alhambra St., in Fort Lauderdale, Florida.  It’s open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 2:00 a.m.  There’s live entertainment Tuesday to Sunday from 8:00 p.m. to 12:30 a.m.