MIKE JEKNAVORIAN Local Restaurants

PANE VINO

SHADE-O-METER RATING

4 OUTTA 5 WERKS: “SHE GAVE GOOD FACE – SHE SERVED IT”

What’s Pano Vino?  It’s an Italian restaurant that’s on Espnaola Way in South Beach.  The name literally translates as, “wine bread.”  Was there an age restriction?  No.  What time did we go?  The wait at 11:15 p.m. was a half an hour long.  We were seated at 11:45 p.m.

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How was the maître d’?  Friendly.  What was the décor like?  Inspired by the Italian countryside.  What was the seating like?  Very minimal, which keeps her exclusive.  There are about four tables outside, and about 11 inside.

What was the atmosphere like?  If you’re sitting outside, you’re sitting parallel to Washington Ave., so you get to see all of the hoopla that this street has to offer.  The seating inside appeared quainter.

What was the crowd like?  Probably mostly tourist, but it was difficult to tell.  Italians do patronize it, because some of the customers were speaking Italian.  How was the cruising?  As everyone knows, the gay scene has mostly dried-up in Miami. There ain’t no cruising going on here.

When’s happy hour?  Sorry Miss Crawford, but the restaurant doesn’t serve liquor, only beer and wine.  What libations were ordered?  We didn’t get any.  What was ordered?  A Caesar salad ($10), Lasagna Emiliana ($19), Cannellone Ricotta e Spinaci ($18), and Cappelletti verdi Tartufati. ($25).  Was the food served timely?  Yes.

How was the food?  The bread that was served prior to the meal was some type of sourdough bread, which may not be the best fit for an Italian restaurant.  Concerning the quality of the bread, it was ok.  Not much can be said about the salad other than that it was a Cesar salad, as expected.  All of the entrées that we ordered were homemade.  The meat in the lasagna was good, and the presentation of it was in tandem with the restaurant’s rustic theme.  Regarding the cannellone, the béchamel (a white sauce) and red sauce combo was probably the best feature of the dish.  As far as the cappelletti goes, if we had to pick one, this was the best dish.  The mascarpone and ricotta cheese that was in the pasta was as light and fluffy as the clouds, and very tasty, and the black truffle sauce that was on top of the pasta provided just the right counterpoint.

How was the service?  They’re attentive.  Some of the staff speak to each other in Italian, so I supposed that this ads to the overall ambiance.  What stands out about the place?  The homemade food, and the dinner-theater atmosphere of Washington Ave.  What could be improved?  The bread should be higher quality.

What was surprising?  There sure must be a lot of Uber drivers working on Saturday night near Washington Ave. because we saw several groups of people playing around on their phone, ordering Uber, and in less than a minute, they were picked up.

Pane Vino is located at 1450 Washington Ave., in Miami Beach, Florida.  It’s open seven days a week from 5:30 p.m. to midnight.     

MIKE JEKNAVORIAN Local Interviews

SHELLEY NOVAK

South Beach legend Shelley Novak talks about Chinese food, what’s unique about Miami Beach, and how drag can change the world

PHOTOGRAPH BY JOHN FORTEZA

Where did you grow up?  In a little town called Saugus, which is just south of Boston.  I think the name is Native-American for “I have to move the fuck out of here.”  But it was the perfect Currier-and-Ives-type childhood.  How long have you lived in South Florida?  Since 1992.  Why did you move here?  After my first long-term relationship broke up, I had to reinvent myself.  All of my friends from home had moved to South Beach, and they told me that if I had to start all over, that Miami Beach was the place to do it.  When I first moved here, we all ended up living in the same building, and we joked that it was our very own little Melrose Place.  New England is a great place to be a kid, but Miami is a great place to be an adult.  What part of South Florida do you live in?  South Beach—I’ve always lived in South Beach.  What do you like most about living here?  I love being immersed in the diverse culture, and I love the weather.  I also love the gay community in South Beach.  It’s really just a small town, since it’s only a few blocks long.  We all have each other’s backs.  What South Florida venue do you miss that’s gone?  Well, I’ve watched them all come and go.  Off the top of my head, it would have to be Crobar.  I worked at the door there for the run of the club; it was seven years.  Where do you hang out in South Florida, and why?  when I want some down and “me” time, I sneak away to Twist.  What’s something that’s unique about South Florida?  I’ve lived in LA and Boston, and Miami, to me, has the perfect balance.  It has the weather, interesting people, the beach and available transportation.  I can walk everywhere.  In LA, for example, a trip to the ATM is a four-hour event there.

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