MIKE JEKNAVORIAN National Restaurants

EL TOVAR LOUNGE

SHADE-O-METER RATING

3 OUTTA 5 WERKS: “NO SHADE, BUT SHE DIDN’T TURN IT OUT”

What’s the El Tovar Lounge?  It’s the cocktail lounge at the El Tovar Hotel in the Grand Canyon Village. The Grand Canyon Village is in the southern rim of the Grand Canyon.  The El Tovar opened in 1905, and it’s the preeminent hotel in the Grand Canyon.  Was there an age restriction?  Unfortunately, no.  And if you can believe it, the table next to us had an infant that was about two years old (who was being fed baby food), and two other kids that were about 10-years-old—wonderful.  What time did we go?  At about 12.30 p.m.

How was the maître d’?  They don’t really have one.  If one of the servers happens to catch you as you walk in, you’re advised to sit where you’d like.  What was the décor like?  A bit different than the rest of the hotel, which was modeled on a European hunting lodge.  The cocktail lounge more closely resembles a hotel from the gilded age.  What was the seating like?  The main bar is inside.  It has some seats around the bar, and some free-standing tables.  There are also about 12 tables outside.  What was the atmosphere like?  For the most part, subdued.

What was the crowd like?  There probably wasn’t one person here who wasn’t a tourist.  And although the female servers weren’t dressed in vintage Harvey attire, a slightly obsequious atmosphere persists.  When’s happy hour?  They don’t have one.  What libations were ordered?  We ordered a Pomegranate Manhattan for $9.60, a Canyon Cooler for $8.90, and a Cucumber Gimlet for $9.60.  Were they served timely?  Yes.  How were the drinks?  All of them were excellent.  The Manhattan had Grand Canyon whiskey as its base, some pomegranate liquor (but not homemade) as a main enhancer, and it had a giant rosemary sprig (but not singed) in it.  The gimlet was supplemented with a cucumber.  The vodka cooler, although refreshing, was composed of the following prefabricated supplements: lemonade and berry schnapps.

What was ordered?  We ordered a Street Tacos for $10.95 and a Local Natural Navajo Nachos for $8.75.  Was the food served timely?  Yes, but it was served too fast.  The drinks were served, and then barely two minutes later, like the speed of a military mess hall, the food was brought out.  How was the food?  The taco had shredded pork in it, which, unfortunately, tasted a bit funny.  It also supposedly contained cotija cheese, although I didn’t see much of that in it.  The Navajo nachos—which was the better of the two dishes—was mainly composed of taco meat and beans on top of nachos.  The meat and the beans in the nacho dish were good.  However, they were too scant.

How was the service?  Excellent and attentive.  What stands out about the restaurant?  The opportunity to whet the whistle after a trek on the canyon, and, undoubtedly, the view (the outdoor seats are just a few dozen yards from the precipice of the canyon).  What could be improved?  The quality of the food and the pour of the liquor.  The food was nothing special, and the drinks, although the concoctions were on the higher end, were too measured.  For example, as if one were in the prohibition era when the hotel was still new, the liquid in the martinis was barely half full in the glass.

What was surprising?  Although others may be used to it, I’m not used to seeing children—especially infants—in bars, just because the bar serves food (and the website said that you have to be 21 to be in the lounge; guess they’re not enforcing this).  Regarding the view of the canyon, I didn’t expect it to be so close.  It provides one of the best views in the area.

The El Tovar Lounge is located at 9 Village Loop Dr., in Grand Canyon Village, Arizona.  It’s open seven days a week from 11:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.

 

 

MIKE JEKNAVORIAN National Restaurants

THE ASYLUM

SHADE-O-METER RATING

4 OUTTA 5 WERKS: “SHE GAVE GOOD FACE – SHE SERVED IT”

What’s The Asylum?  It’s a restaurant that’s located in the Jerome Grand Hotel, which is in Jerome, Arizona.  Jerome is an old copper mining town, and the Jerome Grand Hotel was originally The United Verde Hospital, which serviced the mining community.  The building operated as a hospital from 1926 to 1950, and it’s estimated that 9,000 people died in the hospital during its illustrious tenure.  Hence, the building is purported to be one of the must haunted sites in Arizona.  The hotel opened its doors to the living in 1994, and the restaurant opened to them in 2003.

ADVERTISEMENT

And you, reader, hold a book of stories, linked to the supernatural elements of ‘the largest ghost town in America.’ Own it for only $9.99.

Was there an age restriction?  None for the living.  What time did we go?  Not at the witching hour, unfortunately.  We went at about 1:00 p.m.  How was the maître d’?  Materialized.

What was the décor like?  It played into the haunted mystique of the building.  The vintage wheelchair outside was an especially nice touch.  What was the seating like?  There’s a bar area, which has seating at the bar and some high top tables.  There’s also a small dining room inside—which has spectacular views—and a small dining area outside.

What was the atmosphere like?  Upscale casual.  What was the crowd like?  They appeared to be virtually all tourists.  When’s happy hour?  No happy hour.  The spirits won’t allow it.

What libations were ordered?  We ordered an Electric Shock Lemonade for $9, a Screaming Sazerac for $12, and a Blood Orange Margarita for $11.

Were they served timely?  Yes.  How were the drinks?  The lemonade, which had house-infused lemon vodka in it, wasn’t exactly shocking, but it was tasty.  The margarita, which was made from house-infused blood orange tequila and homemade sweet and sour, was slightly more spectral in effect.  However, the standout poison was the New Orleans absinthe-laced Sazerac.  The drink was excellent, and contained the required louche.  However, considering that we were customers and not patients, I wasn’t a fan of the bartender’s clinical reliance on the jigger measuring tool.

What was ordered?  We ordered a Turner Family Farms of New Zeeland Calamari for $16.50 and a Mushroom Bacon Burger for $14.99.  Was the food served timely?  Yes.

How was the food?  The calamari was made from Turner gourmet calamari, and it had both dehydrated wasabi chick peas and chives on top of it.  It was also served with picked ginger and three kinds of sauces—Atomic horseradish cocktail sauce, a lemon basil aioli, and a wasabi aioli.  I supposed that Turner calamari is a bit better than regular calamari.  Regarding the three sauces, the wasabi aioli was the best.  The cocktail sauce was too salty.  The burger had sautéed shitake and button mushrooms, an “onion medley,” and mesquite smoked bacon on top of it.  It was also served with a side of Kennebec fries.  The burger was great.  The fries definitely had a homemade taste, but they were a little too chewy.

How was the service?  Polite and astute.  Of note, the server said that he lives in Jerome, which only has a population of about 500 (living) souls.  What stands out about the restaurant?  The history, the theming, and the vistas.  The award for the best drink name goes to “Liquid Valium.”

What could be improved?  I would uniform the wait staff in vintage medical attire.  Also, even though Jerome is a tourist area, I would still lower the prices a bit to align more closely with the cost of a public hospital in Central Arizona (which is where Jerome is), as opposed to prices that one would typically encounter at an exclusive, private clinic in, for example, Sedona.  What was surprising?  The Ouija board slate with the restaurant’s name on it.

The Asylum at the Jerome Grand Hotel is located at 200 Hill St., in Jerome, Arizona.  It’s open seven days a week from about 11:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.     

MIKE JEKNAVORIAN National Restaurants

MARY MAC’S TEA ROOM

SHADE-O-METER RATING

4 OUTTA 5 WERKS: “SHE GAVE GOOD FACE – SHE SERVED IT”

What’s Mary Mac’s Tea Room?  It’s a historic restaurant in Atlanta that serves traditional Southern food.  It opened in 1945, and the original owner was Mary McKenzie.  The current owner is John Ferrell, who bought the restaurant in 1994.  Was there an age restriction?  Definitely not.  And the restaurant leans heavy on families with kids.  What time did we go?  Around 5:00 p.m. on a Saturday.

How was the maître d’?  A mess.  Where to begin…?  All parking in Atlanta is a challenge, and the parking at Mary Mac’s is no exception—their parking lot is about the size of a postage stamp.  When I went into restaurant, I gave my name to the hostess for two people, and she gave me a pager.  The pager went off in few seconds, which was an error, and the hostess asked me if the other party was here.  I told her, “No,” and she asked me to let her know when they got there.  A few minutes later, I told her to seat me and that the other party would just find me when they got there.  She muttered something inaudible in response. The other party got there, and we sat there for a few more minutes.  I went and told the hostess that the other party was here.  “Ok, we can activate the reservation now.”  What do you mean, we can activate it now?  I was about to let her have, but decided that it wasn’t worth it.  However, this was no way to start off an experience.

ADVERTISEMENT

When Mary Mac’s opened in 1945, it was one of 16 tea rooms around Atlanta, Georgia.  More than 70 years later, it stands alone in carrying on the tradition of bringing great Southern cooking to everyone from blue collar workers to celebrities.  In Mary Mac’s Tea Room, author and owner John Ferrell brings together over 100 classic recipes from this venerable institution of Southern comfort food.

What was the décor like?  Both self-referential and evocative of a historic building.  What was the seating like?  There were a few seats at a bar.  Other than this, all of the seating was at tables.  What was the atmosphere like?  Mobbed at this time of the day.  Depending on what room you get—and there are many rooms—you may be seated with mostly adults, or you be mixed up with a bunch of families with kids.  This, my dears, is the luck of the draw.

What was the crowd like?  It seemed to consist of more locals than tourists.  However, there are definitely tourists here.  How was the cruising?  Despite the name “Tea Room,” no “tea” action was found.  When’s happy hour?  They don’t have this.  What libations were ordered?  None.

What was ordered?  The all-you-can-eat Southern Special, which was $26.50 a person and was served family style.  You choose three entrées, three side dishes, and one dessert.  For the entrée, we ordered fried chicken, meatloaf, and chicken and dumplings.  For the sides, we ordered fried green tomatoes, macaroni and cheese, and collard greens.  We ordered bread pudding for the dessert.  Was the food served timely?  Yes.

How was the food?  The play was the thing for Hamlet, but the food was the thing here—it’s really what everyone’s coming for.  Before the entrée was brought out, they give you complementary Pot Likker with Cracklin’ Cornbread.  The broth and the cornbread in it were both excellent.  Regarding the entrée, each dish was better than the next.  The tomato sauce on top of the meatloaf was great, and ditto the meatloaf itself, with minimal stuffing, and replenish with onions and green peppers.  The macaroni and cheese was uncharacteristically light and fluffy—who knows how they’re getting it like this.  The chicken dumplings were delightful and contained a surprising hint of nutmeg.  The fried chicken is what you’d expect—wonderful.  The bread pudding was the best I ever had (and I’m not really a fan of this dish).  The only complaint was about the fried green tomatoes.  They were greasy and plain.  As far as the price goes, I never saw so much food for that price.  The menu says that they don’t give takeout containers for the Southern Special, but that’s probably to prohibit ordering seconds—they give you a container if you ask.  And as far as the server knows (I asked), no one has ever finished all of the food in the first order.

How was the server?  Unassuming, but excellent.  What stands out about the restaurant?  Undoubtedly, the food.  What could be improved?  Get rid of miss thing at the reception, and allow reservations.

What was surprising?  The number of celebrities and politicians that have been there recently.  Once we got the server, Marion (at 22 year’s tenure, she’s “a baby” there; one server has worked there for over 50 years, and several other are at 30 and 40 years in), talking, she didn’t want to stop.  Marion told us that the following people had been there recently: Oprah Winfrey, Kevin Hart (He asked for health food; “What’s he asking for that for here?”), Cedric the Entertainer, Tyler Perry, Jimmy Carter (several times), Bill Clinton (he sat with the public), Joe Biden (the secret service was everywhere, both inside and out), Alan Jackson, Justin Bieber (insulated by his security guards), and Richard Gere.

Mary Mac’s Tea Room is located at 224 Ponce de Leon Ave., in Atlanta, Georgia.  They’re open daily, from 11:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. 

 

MIKE JEKNAVORIAN National Restaurants

CAFE BEIGNET

SHADE-O-METER RATING

3 OUTTA 5 WERKS: “NO SHADE, BUT SHE DIDN’T TURN IT OUT”

What’s Café Beignet?  It’s a chain of three cafes in New Orleans.  We went to the Royal St. location in the French Quarter, which is located in a converted 1800s carriage house.  Was there an age restriction?  No (and there were plenty of kids there).

ADVERTISEMENT

This is the exclusive Coffee and chicory blend served at the Café Du Monde, the Original French Market Coffee Stand.

What time did we go?  About 1:00 p.m.  Was there a maître d’?  No.  You seat yourself.  What was the décor like?  It’s evocative of a typical French café or bistro.  What was the seating like?  There are some seats inside, but there are even more outside.

What was the atmosphere like?  Rather upscale, yet casual.  It’s crowded as well, since it’s small.  What was the crowd like?  A mix of tourist and locals, but heavier on the tourists I think.  It’s certainly not the McDonald’s crowd.  How was the cruising?  Bonne chance avec sa ici.

When’s happy hour?  There’s isn’t any.  What libations were ordered?  They only serve beer and wine.  We got one chardonnay for $15.00.  Were they served timely?  You place your order at the counter, and a server brings the food to you.  However, you carry the beverage to the table yourself.

How was the wine?  Fine, for “table” wine.  What was ordered?  We ordered two muffalettas at $9.99 each, two bowls of gumbo at $9.99 each, an andouille sausage omelet for $9.99, and a breakfast sandwich for $7.99.  Was the food served timely?  For the most part, the wait was consistent with the venue.  However, don’t go if you’re in a rush.

How was the food?  Pretty good.  The muffaletta bread was excellent, and the meat and spices in it were right-on.  But the gumbo was thin and lacked flavor.  The andouille sausage in the omelet tasted more like kielbasa sausage than like andouille, and I’m not sure if that was an unexpected surprise or a negative feature.  However, the beignets are great (but they better be if you’re going to name the restaurant after them).

How was the service?  Okay.  However, the timing of the orders was inconsistent.  The omelet was brought out way after the other items.  What stands out about the place?  The locale.  The outdoor seating-area is picturesque, and it’s right next to a historic building that’s used as a police station.

What could be improved?  The prices should be lowered a bit (they’re a little high for what you get; particularly, that wine), the service needs to be consistent, and the food quality should be improved for some of the dishes.  What was surprising?  The hung guy in a loincloth who was playing a saxophone right outside the restaurant.

Café Beignet is located at 334 Royal St., in New Orleans, Louisiana.  It’s open daily from 7:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.

MIKE JEKNAVORIAN National Restaurants

BRENNAN’S

SHADE-O-METER RATING

2 OUTTA 5 WERKS: “NOT FEELING IT”

What’s Brennan’s?  It’s a creole restaurant in the French Quarter in New Orleans.  The restaurant is known for brunch and for the creation of the Bananas Foster desert.  It was founded by Owen Brennan in 1946, and then re-established in 2014.  The building dates to 1795.

ADVERTISEMENT

The iconic restaurant famous for “Breakfast at Brennan’s” is a Creole favorite and has been a New Orleans staple for decades. These classic recipes are sprinkled with both family and restaurant history and seasoned with the original illustrations.

What time did we go?  1:00 p.m.  How was the maître d’?  The mortician/maître d, was, I believe, the rudest and most dyspeptic one that I’ve ever encountered.  We had reservations (of course), and when we went to the reservation area to be seated, the maître d instructed, “You need to wait right here.”  And we weren’t the only party that was subjected to such pleasantries.  Another party was told, “Stop.  You can’t go past this rope.  You have to wait here.”  I also held the velvet rope’s pole in place for the maître d as he silently fumbled to adjust it, and he didn’t even have the curtesy to thank me.  As if all this embalming-preparation wasn’t enough, there was also final shade given at the end of the meal.  As we left the restaurant, we walked right through an empty foyer and right past the maître d, and he didn’t say one word.

What was the décor like?  Fabulous and definitely a high point—it’s one of the few saving graces about the place.  The gouache murals in the main dining room, the Chanteclair Room, display beautiful vintage carnivale scenes of whimsy.

What was the seating like?  There are two indoor dining areas, and one outdoor one.  However, they weren’t seating anyone outdoors.  What was the atmosphere like?  Loud.  What was the crowd like?  Somewhat uppidity, and heavy on locals.  Granted, this was the Friday before Mardi Gras, so it’s possible that the crowd was skewed because of the holiday.

How was the cruising?  None.  The queens are incognito here.  What libations were ordered?  We ordered a Cajun Bloody Mary for $10, and a Brandy Milk Punch for $9.  Were they served timely?  Not really.  They came after the soup, and shortly before the entre.

How were they?  The server claimed that the bloody Mary was rated as one of the “top five” in the city.  It was pretty good, but it could have been a tad bit stronger.  However, the “Marys” weren’t served consistently.  One drink was served with pickled okra, but the other two were denied that tidbit—those two poor Marys.  As far as the Brandy Milk Punch went, it was really nothing more than a glorified White Russian.  But the situation gets better.  When this drink was about three-fourths done, we noticed a chip in the glass and pointed this out to the server.  He apologized for the glass and took it away, but supplied no replacement drink!

What was ordered?  A two-course lunch (seafood gumbo and a creole-spiced shrimp salad) for $29, eggs Benedict for $19, country-fried pork chops for $27, an appetizer seafood gumbo for $10, and pumpkin-seed-crusted redfish for $28.  Was the food served timely?  Yes.

How was it?  Overall, the food was excellent, but not superlative.  The gumbo had oysters in it (a nice touch), but the base lacked sufficient flavor and richness.  The Canadian bacon in the egg’s Benedict was cured with coffee, and it mixed with the egg’s red-wine reduction sauce in a pleasant manner.  The salad had complements of thyme, and the shrimp in it was very fresh.  The pork chop was tasty and high-quality, and the combination of pomegranate butter, pumpkin puree, and kale pumpkin seeds in the redfish was like a delectable and edible fall-foliage display.  But there were also some inconsistencies.  One gumbo had several whole oysters in it, but the other one had just a few measly chopped-up pieces in it.

How was the service?  Not so great.  The server wasn’t so friendly, and he also looked down at the bill to see what his tip was—18 percent, and then he made a face when he didn’t like what he saw—once he thought he was out of eyesight.  What stands out about the place?  Really, only the décor.  That, and I suppose its reputation.

What could be improved?  You name it.  But let’s start with the mortician, and then go from there.  What was surprising?  That the bread that was served at the beginning of the meal was really just a po-boy roll, and it was served on top of a cloth napkin.

Brennan’s is located at 417 Royal St., in New Orleans, Louisiana.  It’s open daily from breakfast to 10:00 p.m.  The restaurant closes for a few hours between brunch and dinner, but The Roost Bar remains open. 

MIKE JEKNAVORIAN National Restaurants

THE COBALT LOUNGE AT THE CASA MONICA HOTEL

SHADE-O-METER RATING

4 OUTTA 5 WERKS: “SHE GAVE GOOD FACE – SHE SERVED IT”

What’s the Casa Monica Hotel?  It’s a historic hotel in St. Augustine, Florida.  It opened in 1888, and it’s one of the oldest hotels in the country.

What’s the Cobalt Lounge?  It’s a jazz lounge in the Case Monica Hotel.  According to the website, they offer “handcrafted cocktails” and “signature martinis.”

How was the maître d’?  No maître d’.  You seat yourself.  How was the décor?  To quote Tallulah Bankhead from the movie Lifeboat, “In a word—wow.”  The architecture is Moorish revival and Spanish Baroque revival.  The lounge, and surrounding hotel, is sure to satisfy all your peripatetic desires.

What was the seating like?  There’s some bar seating, some high top seating, and some cocktail seating.  What was the atmosphere like?  Chill.  The live musical is on Friday and Saturday, from 8:00 p.m. to midnight.

What was the crowd like?  Virtually nonexistent.  But then again, it was around noon.  When was happy hour?  She don’t give no discounts during the winter season but sometimes rolls em’ out during the off-season.

What libations were ordered?  A cool blue cucumber martini ($11), a ruby red grapefruit martini ($12), and an apple pear martini ($9).  The cucumber and the grapefruit martinis were the server’s personal recipe that she created for a local Christmas cocktail contest.  Neither was on the menu; you have to ask for it.

Were they served timely?  Yes.  How were they?  Good, but I don’t know that they’ll be winning any awards.  However, they were very strong.  Side note—the venue used to have a ginger martini that was “to die” for.  It had Goldschlagger liqueur in it and an edible hibiscus.  But alas, it’s no more (I asked).

What was on the menu?  Six appetizers, a few pizzas, a few sandwiches, and less than 10 entrees.  What was ordered?  Two appetizers.  The Wagyu beef carpaccio ($14) and the “costa” calamari ($14).  Was the food served timely?  Not necessarily.  The wait almost verged on being excessive.

How was it?  Of the two, the carpaccio app was better.  The carpaccio was accompanied by a mustard aioli (which also had dill and wasabi in it) and parmesan flakes.  The most interesting aspect of the calamari was that it was served with a lemon Moroccan harissa sauce (but not enough of it) and fresh oregano.  It was fried correctly, and the batter was good.

How was the service?  Attentive, but a bit quirky.  The bartender/servers been there for 17 years.  What stands out about the place?  The unique décor.  What could be improved?  The food should be more inventive and convey risk-taking.  What was surprising?  That they don’t do a haunted tour of the hotel.

The Casa Monica Hotel is located at 95 Cordova St., in St. Augustine, Florida.  The Cobalt Lounge is opened from about 11:00 a.m. to midnight.