SHADE-O-METER RATING
3 OUTTA 5 WERKS: “NO SHADE, BUT SHE DIDN’T TURN IT OUT”
What’s the El Tovar Lounge? It’s the cocktail lounge at the El Tovar Hotel in the Grand Canyon Village. The Grand Canyon Village is in the southern rim of the Grand Canyon. The El Tovar opened in 1905, and it’s the preeminent hotel in the Grand Canyon. Was there an age restriction? Unfortunately, no. And if you can believe it, the table next to us had an infant that was about two years old (who was being fed baby food), and two other kids that were about 10-years-old—wonderful. What time did we go? At about 12.30 p.m.
How was the maître d’? They don’t really have one. If one of the servers happens to catch you as you walk in, you’re advised to sit where you’d like. What was the décor like? A bit different than the rest of the hotel, which was modeled on a European hunting lodge. The cocktail lounge more closely resembles a hotel from the gilded age. What was the seating like? The main bar is inside. It has some seats around the bar, and some free-standing tables. There are also about 12 tables outside. What was the atmosphere like? For the most part, subdued.
What was the crowd like? There probably wasn’t one person here who wasn’t a tourist. And although the female servers weren’t dressed in vintage Harvey attire, a slightly obsequious atmosphere persists. When’s happy hour? They don’t have one. What libations were ordered? We ordered a Pomegranate Manhattan for $9.60, a Canyon Cooler for $8.90, and a Cucumber Gimlet for $9.60. Were they served timely? Yes. How were the drinks? All of them were excellent. The Manhattan had Grand Canyon whiskey as its base, some pomegranate liquor (but not homemade) as a main enhancer, and it had a giant rosemary sprig (but not singed) in it. The gimlet was supplemented with a cucumber. The vodka cooler, although refreshing, was composed of the following prefabricated supplements: lemonade and berry schnapps.
What was ordered? We ordered a Street Tacos for $10.95 and a Local Natural Navajo Nachos for $8.75. Was the food served timely? Yes, but it was served too fast. The drinks were served, and then barely two minutes later, like the speed of a military mess hall, the food was brought out. How was the food? The taco had shredded pork in it, which, unfortunately, tasted a bit funny. It also supposedly contained cotija cheese, although I didn’t see much of that in it. The Navajo nachos—which was the better of the two dishes—was mainly composed of taco meat and beans on top of nachos. The meat and the beans in the nacho dish were good. However, they were too scant.
How was the service? Excellent and attentive. What stands out about the restaurant? The opportunity to whet the whistle after a trek on the canyon, and, undoubtedly, the view (the outdoor seats are just a few dozen yards from the precipice of the canyon). What could be improved? The quality of the food and the pour of the liquor. The food was nothing special, and the drinks, although the concoctions were on the higher end, were too measured. For example, as if one were in the prohibition era when the hotel was still new, the liquid in the martinis was barely half full in the glass.
What was surprising? Although others may be used to it, I’m not used to seeing children—especially infants—in bars, just because the bar serves food (and the website said that you have to be 21 to be in the lounge; guess they’re not enforcing this). Regarding the view of the canyon, I didn’t expect it to be so close. It provides one of the best views in the area.
The El Tovar Lounge is located at 9 Village Loop Dr., in Grand Canyon Village, Arizona. It’s open seven days a week from 11:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.
